The studs for the walls should be centered on the bottom plates at intervals of 16 inches. Use 3-inch decking screws to fasten the bottom plates to the floor. You can skip this step if you are reinstalling the shower pan in an old bathroom constructing a new shower pan in a bathroom.
Coat the inside of the drain with cement and a PVC primer then twist the drain onto the waste line in the floor. After the cement has dried up, insert the drain bolts into the lower drain plate. Measure the size of the shower floor then cut a pound piece of felt to fit this size. Place it on the floor then staple it in place. Using the same measurements, cut a metal lath then also stapple it on the floor. Make sure there are no bumps on the lath and felt. The metal lath provides a foothold for the mortar mix.
Next, cut a circular hole around the drain hole. The hole should be at least an inch wider than the size of the hole to allow for the next steps. Follow the instructions on the mortar mix to mix enough for the whole bathroom floor. Use a latex additive to mix the dry deck mud instead of water.
Plug the drain hole with a piece of cloth then pour the mix onto the floor. Evenly spread it out with a wood float then allow it to dry overnight. You can make larger pieces of the waterproof membrane by solvent-welding pieces together.
The area around the drain should be reinforced by solvent-welding another piece of the membrane on the original one about 10 inches in diameter. Lay the membrane onto to the floor, smooth out any air bubbles in it then staple in onto the floor to secure it. Do the same for the excess parts of the membrane which will rise up on the wall and curb. Solvent-weld the pieces then staple them to the wall and curb. Feel the floor over the membrane then mark with an X over each bolt around the drain hole.
Use a sharp knife to cut an X over the bolts to expose them. Unscrew the bolts in readiness for installing the upper drain plate. Feel the area between the bolts then cut out the drain hole exactly around the hole and no larger.
Requiring minimal mixing and sets rapidly, so it is highly suitable for repair applications. Safety Before you begin any project, please ensure you protect yourself with the following:.
Face mask. Team lift. Look after yourself properly Protect your skin and eyes. Some of them are installed with shims to help level the pan, but most are installed in a bed of thinset mortar like what is used for ceramic tile and natural stone installations.
This not only provides a stable, level base for the shower pan, but it also holds the acrylic pan in place above and beyond the wall screws mounting the pan to the studs. This will help you know how much mortar you should use when actually spreading it onto the floor. Dry-fit the shower pan into place and mark the outline of the pan onto the floor, using a pencil. Remove the pan and set it aside. Leave the drain cover off so you can access the pipes later.
Mix thinset mortar with the drill and paddle. Remix a premixed solution that comes in a sealed bucket. Concrete is a simple thing to make. By altering the levels of each ingredient you change the strength and function of the concrete. DIY mixes are a great option for a few reasons. With Quikrete, the mix is made for you. You can include in some additives but most people just use it as is. But with a DIY mix, you can vary the ingredients however you want.
Although I recommend just going with the standard ingredients and ratios like Quikrete uses. Just two ingredients mixed with water. For an 80 lb bag worth of concrete you need about 4 quarts of water. First, measure out your cement and sand separately. Second, place the ingredients in a concrete mixer, tray or wheelbarrow and mix the dry ingredients thoroughly with a hoe, shovel or trowel. Finally, add in water and mix until you have a finished concrete. While mixing your own shower pan concrete can save you a little money, it does add more work.
You have to buy each of the ingredients separately, measure them out and mix it yourself.
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