Unlike the Martini, the bubbles in the shaken versions lingered and were deemed less visually appealing than their stirred alternative. All three tasters chose the stirred Manhattan as their first choice, finding it the most dynamic and rounded. That said, we all would have happily consumed the shaken Manhattans. They even seemed a touch brighter, with more fruit notes present. Visuals aside, one of the most noticeable differences between the shaken and stirred versions was the way in which each component of each cocktail presented itself.
The shaken versions, on the other hand, resulted in drinks that read more like a unified whole, with otherwise secondary flavors, like vermouth, coming into the foreground. While there was a universal preference for the stirred Manhattan there was also a universal agreement that shaking the Manhattan offers a means to understanding the drink—and flavor integration, in general—in a different way. Like the Martini, the bubbles only momentarily stuck around in the shaken Negronis, and appeared identical by the time they hit the bar.
First, chilling makes the harsh-tasting ethanol less volatile and assertive, allowing more pleasant, subtle flavors to come through. Second, the ethanol in gin and other spirits like scotch and whiskey dissolves some of the water-insoluble aroma compounds.
Diluting with water from the ice drives these molecules and their aromas out of the solution and into the air. Cocktails like martinis require stirring with ice not just for lowering the temperature of the drink but also for the added water that the ice throws off as the drink cools. How do you take your martini? Ever since the first ice-cube was added to the original cocktail recipe of liquor, bitters, and sugar, mixologists have loved their bar gear.
Today, Dave Arnold has added rotary evaporators, iSi whippers, and liquid nitrogen to the mix, placing the most cutting-edge cocktails out of reach of the home mixologist.
But there is one super trendy, high-tech trick that you can try at home. It actually has a historic basis—even Ben Franklin wrote down his own a recipe for milk punch that uses the casein protein in milk to strip out the phenolic compounds and turn a rough-around-the-edges brandy into a soft, round, soothing drink.
Arnold washes drinks to remove flavors, rather than add them. According to Arnold, your yield will be a little lower than with a centrifuge, but the result will be just as tasty. His only word of warning is that you have to drink the resulting cocktail within a week, or else the proteins will clump together and the drink will lose its foaming power. Gastropod is a podcast about the science and history of food.
Some people are even iffy on the olive I am; I hate olives. And what kind of vermouth? How much? Ah, you want vodka, not gin? Oh, you want a Martini, but you want it made with Disaronno?
Come on! The line has to be drawn somewhere. Straight up? Straight up with a twist? Perfect, extra dry, dirty, down? It's ridiculous, but if you want to dig into the details A Basic Martini — the gold standard, no screwing around — uses gin and dry vermouth in a ratio, stirred over ice, then strained into a tall stemmed glass containing no ice "up" and garnished with either a twist "up with a twist" of lemon or olives.
An Extra Dry Martini reduces the amount of vermouth by half.
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